Indian Journeys

Indian Journeys

About my journeys in India, of which I've known so little. I'm making up for the lack …
Jul
13
The Chola Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram

The Chola Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram

The form of the Chola statue is lean, slender, its pose delicate, and the features of male and female are so sharp you can cut with them.
3 min read
May
21
Havelock Island, Andaman Sea

Havelock Island, Andaman Sea

"We've no tigers on these islands. No leopards. No cheetah. But we have 48 types of snakes, so please use this," they said.
3 min read
May
15
The Cellular Jail in the Andamans

The Cellular Jail in the Andamans

The Andaman Island’s Cellular Jail, the jailer settlement of the British on Ross Island, and the son et lumière at both places.
3 min read
Apr
19
Lord Shiva is an Emotional Fellow

Lord Shiva is an Emotional Fellow

Lord Shiva cursed Kamadhenu: “You will never again receive worship at your face. Henceforth, all worship to you shall be at your tail.”
3 min read
Nov
04
Muddling Around at the Sira Fort

Muddling Around at the Sira Fort

This huge fort — its ramparts still standing — was built in the time of the Vijayanagara empire, passing down to a succession of other dynasties: the Bijapur sultans, the Mughals, Haidar Ali and Tipu Sultan, the Marathas, and, finally, the Raj.
6 min read
Sep
22
Remembering William Baillie, Defeated By Tipu Sultan

Remembering William Baillie, Defeated By Tipu Sultan

Baillie is reported to have said to Haidar Ali: “Your son will inform you that you owe the victory to our disaster rather than to our defeat."
7 min read
Aug
17
A Short Trip to Auroville, and the Aurobindo Ashram

A Short Trip to Auroville, and the Aurobindo Ashram

A weighty hush kept everybody in silence. My wife pinched my arm to show me things.
5 min read
Jul
26
The Devanahalli Fort in Bangalore

The Devanahalli Fort in Bangalore

Built of mud by the Gowda rulers, Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan fortified it with stone. Afterward, the fort fell to the British under Cornwallis.
2 min read
May
12
The Hasanamba Temple in Hassan

The Hasanamba Temple in Hassan

A stricken Kafur rushed to the poojaris of the devis but they couldn't help him, the affront to the devis being so terrible. But Hasanamba, who is goddess to all men and forgives every penitent, appeared to Kafur in a dream and suggested he build a temple to her as penitence.
3 min read
Jun
09
The White Planter's Coffee Club

The White Planter's Coffee Club

Peering through time, the mists are thick. In their haze are white men from six-thousand miles away, seeking fortune and adventure in the jungles of Malnad.
6 min read