We beat hurricane Maria to Puerto Rico, arriving Friday evening last week. Then Maria changed her mind, and on Sunday she touched the tiny island only with her fringes. So we walked on the smooth paved streets of Old San Juan and on the promenade at the feet of the medieval Spanish fort, by the sea. We ate in old restaurants. The museums were closed as a mark of respect to Maria. When the rains got serious we hired a taxi and went south to Ponce.